This free restoration of wood booklet contains detailed instructions on how to use the Smith and Co. epoxy resins that we sell. In addition to the product information there is a wealth of useful information on the causes of rot, and the mechanisms to resist and repair it. A copy of this pamphlet is included between the cans of any pack of Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, and we ship a copy with any restoration or preservation product sale.
If you are interested in this, we will send one to any UK address free of charge, just add it to the basket and checkout. This booklet is copyrighted by Steve Smith of Smith and Co. We are only allowed to distribute physical copies.
Restoration of Wood Booklet Contents
We reproduce the index here to assist you in determining whether the wood restoration booklet may be of interest to you.
- How and Why the Technology Works
- Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES)
- MultiWoodPrime – The World’s Greatest Primer
- Cold Weather Formula CPES
- Restoration of Wood
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Restoration Illustrated
- Fill-It Epoxy Filler
- Mixing Two-Component Products
- Restoration of Wood (the essay)
- House Deck Repair
- Using CPES as a Primer
- Consolidation of Old Mortar
- Reduce the Weathering of Outdoor Surfaces
- Tropical Hardwood Epoxy
- Layup & Laminating Epoxy
- Oak & Teak Epoxy Glue
- How to Glue and Repair Wood with Epoxy
Wood Restoration Example Content
A snippet of content from the wood restoration example ‘House Deck Repair’ reproduced below:
The most common failure of wood decking is due to the fundamental flaw in design.
Normal construction of decks has the planks which form the upper surface placed across and perpendicular to a joist, which may be 2” X 12” on edge (the 12” dimension vertical). This maximizes the stiffness in supporting a deck, which may extend out from the side of a house and have little or no vertical support below.
The planks are screwed or nailed to the joists, puncturing both wooden members. There is, however, a very thin air space between each deck plank and joist because the wood pieces do not fit perfectly. That very thin gap may also open up as the structure moves around a bit with age and changing weather. Rain falls and dew condenses at night, allowing water to collect in these narrow dark spaces. Warmed by the sun, these spaces become a breeding ground for the natural bacteria and fungi which exist everywhere. Over a period of years the wood in these areas is eaten away by this microscopic life. The overall condition is generally called dry rot.
There comes a point at which restoration is no longer practical and replacement must be confronted. It is necessary to define the point at which restoration is impractical. This depends on the amount of strength which the joist may have lost and which practical repairs may be expected to return to the structure.
The following recommendations are based on over thirty years of such type repairs by our customers. We are neither architects nor professional engineers, and we take no responsibility whatsoever for these recommendations. We strongly urge that any structural repair be overseen by a licensed architect or structural engineer as appropriate, and done in full conformance with all building codes and existing regulations.
Where the underside of deck planks shows deterioration to a depth of a quarter the plank thickness or less, then restoration should be feasible. When the top edge of the joist shows deterioration over the full width of the joist and to a depth of perhaps a half inch to an inch it should be feasible to restore the existing joists … (Continues)
A snippet of content from the wood restoration product Fill-It epoxy filler is reproduced below:
A non-sag epoxy filler for restoration of wood. Easily sanded. Cures overnight.
Fill-It epoxy filler represents a breakthrough in the technology of filling compounds. Through the use of advanced hydrogen bonding technology, we have produced a high strength, light weight, non-sagging, easily sanded epoxy filler. It consists of an epoxy resin and a curing agent, largely derived from natural wood resins, and so the cured filler is very compatible with wood.
The two components are designed to mix one to one by volume. When mixed they become a gel which may be faired and worked to a feather edge. After one to two hours in moderate weather it begins to harden, and cures overnight. As soon as it does not gum up the paper it may be sanded, and primers or paints applied… (Continues)